You can see much of Edinburgh on foot. And the obvious place to start is at Edinburgh Castle. This conspicuous monument, whose foundations go back a thousand years, is a tribute to the city’s glorious, romantic and often bloody past. From the 11th to 16th centuries, the castle was the seat of Scottish royalty. It’s watched over the long and complicated struggles between Scotland and England.
In the Royal Apartments, Mary Queen of Scots, gave birth to the son who would become James the Sixth of Scotland, and James the First of England. Mary’s Catholic religion and claim to the English throne posed a threat to her cousin Elizabeth I of England. The English government imprisoned Mary for years, and she was ultimately beheaded.
Across the courtyard, the Great Hall was built as the ceremonial gathering place for the castle, and its spectacular hammerbeam ceiling was constructed without a single nail. Sometimes the king would excuse himself early from dinner and hide behind this iron-barred listening grate to eavesdrop on his courtiers. If he didn’t like what he heard, well, it was “off with their heads”. When Oliver Cromwell captured the castle in 1650, he converted this enormous space to soldiers’ barracks, and it stayed that way for 200 years.
The British are renowned for their love of dogs, and beginning in the 1840’s the soldiers were allowed to bury their pets and company mascots in this little cemetery. Here lie such loyal favorites as “Winkle, Dear and Faithful Friend” and “Scamp, Faithful Chum”.
As you leave the castle, descend the eerie prison vaults to recall the sights and sounds of captives once held here. During the 18th and 19th centuries, the Brits imprisoned sailors from a variety of countries...including American crewmen who sailed with John Paul Jones, and Frenchmen who fought during the Napoleonic wars.
TIP
Edinburgh Castle offers guided tours throughout the year.
Find out more at www.aboutbritain.com/EdinburghCastle.htm.
It’s hard to imagine Scotland without thinking of the checkered cloth called “tartan”. This colorful wool was worn by the clans that lived in the Scottish highlands as far back as the 12th century.
(Interview with kilt maker)
TIP
Useful guide: “So You’re Going to Wear the Kilt”, by J.C. Thompson.
Find out more at www.geoffreykilts.co.uk.
The streets of Edinburgh are steeped in legends of murder, mystery, and ghostly happenings. To see this city’s spooky side, proceed (with caution) to one of the ghost walk tours that takes place most evenings on the Royal Mile. (soundbites with guide) Wandering the narrow passageways of the old town, the guide provides gruesome tales of the 17th century witch burning and the terrible plague epidemic. While some tours are truly eerie, our guide had a more humorous take on Edinburgh’s macabre past.
TIP
Find out more about these ghostly tours at www.witcherytours.com.
The Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa
After a day of trekking through medieval streets, I like to kick back in one of Scotland’s many spa hotels. Sitting in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, the Sheraton Grand offers great city views. But the pride of the hotel is the spa, which occupies six floors. I head straight for the heat and steam therapies, the fitness studio, and holistic treatments from around the world.
TIP
Find out more about The Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa at
www.connoisseurs-scotland.com.
You can practice your golf swing and more at the Gleneagles Resort, about an hour west of St. Andrews in the Perthshire region. Britain’s greatest golf hotel stands on its own 830-acre estate. This is a true resort in the traditional style, but it still has a refreshingly relaxed and unstarchy manner. And it’s a great place to try your hand at some traditional Scottish recreation.
I’m interested in a little target practice, so I’ve signed up for a clay shooting lesson.
(Soundbite with shooting instructor)
Next up is a Falconry lesson. This is one of the oldest and most aristocratic sports. Equipped with a sturdy falconer's glove, you can learn the art of handling these magnificent birds.
(Soundbite with falconry instructor)
TIP
Find out more about The Gleneagles Hotel at www.connoisseurs-scotland.com.
What better way to wrap up a great visit to Scotland than with some traditional music on the shores of Loch Lomond? We’re attending a "ceilidh"—a lively evening of dancing, singing and, often a bit of good whisky. Ceilidh dancing is simply Scottish folk dancing and it often involves a dance caller. Beginners are always welcome!
TIP
Find ceilidhs and other musical events at www.visitscotland.com.
Interested in planning your vacation to Edinburgh?
Start your trip at
Expedia.com/United Kingdom
Useful guide: “So You’re Going to Wear the Kilt”, by J.C. Thompson.
Find out more at www.geoffreykilts.co.uk.
Find out more about these ghostly tours at www.witcherytours.com.
Find out more about The Sheraton Grand Hotel & Spa at
www.connoisseurs-scotland.com.